Dylan and Pénélope Roche brought their savoir-faire to the Okanagan in 2011. They will celebrate Roche Wines‘ 10-year anniversary this May.
They purchased an eight-acre block on Upper Bench Road in Penticton in 2014. French tradition nourishes their shared passion for soils, vines and wine. They are both winemakers and viticulturists. Dedicated to natural, artisanal farming and winemaking, they strive to reveal the intimate relation of wine and terroir.
I first met Dylan Roche at the Garagiste North event in Kelowna in 2015 and fell in love with his Pinot Noir and Rosé. This was the year that the BCWineTrends blog was launched.
Vineyard
The Roche vineyard has about 4-acres planted. On the southern edge of the Naramata Bench, this vineyard overlooks the city of Penticton and Okanagan Lake. The twenty-year old ungrafted vines are deeply rooted in a mix of silt, organic matter and gravel. The gentle westward slope at the base of Campbell Mountain ensures good drainage and ideal exposure.
This vineyard adjoining the winery includes 3 acres of Schonberger, 1 acre of Zweigelt, 1.12 acres of Chardonnay and 0.63 acres of Pinot noir.
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were planted in summer 2017.
The Winemakers
Dylan left North Vancouver in 2000 to work as a bicycle mechanic in Burgundy. He suffered a conversion experience; a diploma in viticulture and winemaking in Beaune led to apprenticeships in the Côte d’Or, Chablis, and New Zealand. Five years in Bordeaux included teaching oenology and sensory evaluation classes at château Lynch-Bages in Pauillac, and managing a small estate in Margaux.
Pénélope was born in France. She has five generations of winemaking and viticulture behind her in the family estate, Château Les Carmes in Haut-Brion. She also has formal winemaking and experience in Spain, New Zealand and Australia.
Our strength and what we really spend the most time on is very detailed and thorough work at the vineyard. Good wines are made on the vines; later in the cellar, it’s just cooking!
Dylan & Pénélope
I had the opportunity to ask the winemakers about the difference between winemaking in France and BC and their plans for the future. Here is Dylan’s response.
1. What is different about making wine in the Okanagan compared to France?
“The dry Okanagan climate is the biggest difference we’ve noticed. Most areas of France are relatively humid compared to the Okanagan Valley. This is a complex factor in growing good grapes; we’ve had to learn to use irrigation, and how to mitigate the extreme rate of evaporation. But it’s great for organic farming, which is a real challenge in a humid climate. It’s easier to do here thanks to the dry conditions.”
2. What has been your biggest challenge since starting the winery? What have been the pleasant surprises?
“We face many of the same challenges as any small business: financing, time management, seasonal staffing… but COVID has forced us to evolve quickly in terms of communication, making sure everyone who can’t come to visit and taste our wines can still be aware of what we’re doing. Pénélope and I love good restaurants and we sold most of our wines through restaurants before the pandemic. We are convinced that restaurants will bounce back stronger, but there’s been so much disruption and uncertainty, and that’s been really heartbreaking in many cases.
It’s not really a surprise, but we’ve been so pleased to become part of the community – in our new hometown of Penticton, in the Okanagan wine industry, and as a part of the broader farm-to-table culinary movement that has flourished in Vancouver and across the province, to our delight!”
3. What are you planning for the future? How large would you like to grow?
“We are planning to add to our plantings of Pinot Noir while increasing our total production only slightly. We want to continually improve the quality of our wines, but don’t want to grow to the point that we are separated from the vineyard and the winemaking by the weight of managing a bigger company.”
4. I believe the winery capacity is about 10.000 cases. When do you expect to reach this level?
“While the building could accommodate 10,000 cases of production, we hope to find the right balance somewhat short of that number. 6000-8000 cases?”
The Roche Wines
Roche Pinot Gris ‘Tradition’ 2018 ($28.90)
Vineyards: This wine is grown on a one-acre block of Pinot Gris within the spectacular Kozier Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. The certified organic farm slopes west to face the setting sun and Okanagan Lake. The synergy of a warm microclimate with cool soils ensures long, even ripening.
Winemaking: Whole bunches were gently pressed and free-run juice was settled overnight and taken straight to barrel. Fermentation was completed over two months in neutral French oak barrels. The wine remained on lees in barrel for a total of eight months with limited lees stirring in the first two months. Neutral oak was chosen to enhance texture without adding overt oak flavours and aromatics.
Alcohol 14.1%, pH 3.13, TA 6.2 gm/L, RS 2 gm/ L
This is not your average BC Pinot Gris. This is a darker colour, richer Pinot Gris. Aromas of white flowers, citrus, pear, apple, and ginger. On the palate, baked pear, juicy red apples, lemon zest with a hint of licorice and honeycomb. The wine has a creamy mouthfeel and vibrant acidity that carries through to an intensely long finish. 92 Points
Serve with hearty roast pork, chicken, grilled halibut with chorizo, wild mushroom risotto, or spiced Asian dishes.
Roche Pinot Gris ‘Texture’ 2020 ($21.90)
This Pinot Gris is grown at Kozier Organic Vineyard on the Naramata Bench. The certified organic farm slopes west to face the setting sun and Okanagan Lake. The synergy of a warm micro-climate with cool soils ensures long, even ripening.
Winemaking: Hand-picked, whole bunches were gently pressed and free run juice was settled overnight. Fermentation was completed in stainless steel tanks over three weeks. The wine remained on fine lees for four months before bottling. This wine is a clear expression of the freshness and minerality of this varietal.
Alcohol 13.9%, pH 3.11, TA 6.5 gm/L, RS 1.1 gm/ L
On the nose orchard fruit and citrus blossoms. Favours of green apples, Anjou pears, lychee, Meyer Lemon, Mandarin Orange and a whiff of ginger. The bone dry Gris has a crisp juicy mouthfeel with well-balanced acidity leading to a most enjoyable finish. 91 Points
Roche Rosé ‘Texture’ 2020 ($21.90)
Vineyards: On the southern edge of the Naramata Bench, this eight-acre vineyard overlooks the city of Penticton and Okanagan Lake. The twenty-year-old ungrafted vines are deeply rooted in a mix of silt, sand and gravel. The gentle westward slope at the base of Campbell Mountain ensures good drainage and ideal exposure.
92% Zweigelt and 8% Schonberger
Winemaking: Farmed specifically for making rose, the Zweigelt vines are allowed to ripen slowly and picked while flavours are brightest. Hand- harvested and pressed gently, this vivid colour is the result of just forty-five minutes in contact with skins. Fermented in stainless steel to preserve the freshness and exuberance of aromas.
A classic French style Rosé with an alluring nose of candied strawberry, rose petals and watermelon. Flavours of more strawberries, watermelon, pink grapefruit and pomegranate. A crisp juicy medium-bodied wine with a mineral backbone and dry finish. 91 Points
Roche Nuances 2018 ($32.19)
58% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon
Winemaking: Hand-harvested over several days in late October, each lot was destemmed and fermented in separate stainless steel tanks. Extraction was managed daily with gentle pump overs. After 12 months ageing in French oak barrels, Nuances was blended to balance the character of vintage and varietals.
Alcohol 14.3%, pH 3.7, TA 6 gm/L, RS 2.4 gm/ L
The blend opens with intense aromas of ripe blackberries and a hint of smoke that quickly dissipates. On the palate, more ripe blackberry, cherries, blueberry, cassis, and some leather and earthy undertones. Generous mid-palate leading to a long smooth finish. The wine has some crystals so decant before serving. 91 Points
This wine is newly available for non-club members as of May 15, 2021. Available online at rterroir.ca, in-person at the winery, and at select private wine stores throughout the province.
Roche Château 2017 ($49.90)
Vineyards: The Merlot is grown at Kozier Organic Vineyard on the Naramata Bench, on west-facing slopes overlooking Okanagan Lake. Soils include both granite gravel and finer glacial sediments.
Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon are grown just north of Oliver, on well-sorted rounded river rock and gravel, a remnant of a post-glacial riverbed.
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc
Winemaking: Hand-picked, fermented separately, and aged in new and recent French oak barrels. Combining lots that show the greatest density and depth of the structure. Aged for 18 months in 40% French oak.
Alcohol 13.7%, pH 3.9, TA 5.9 gm/L, RS 2.4 gm/ L
On the nose a medley of black and red fruit. Flavours of ripe blackberry, red raspberry with just a hint of vanilla and tobacco leaf. Structured tannins and well-balanced acidity. Château is blended to reward 5-10 years of cellaring. 93 Points
This wine is newly available for non-club members as of May 15, 2021. Available online at rterroir.ca, in-person at the winery, and at select private wine stores throughout the province.
Roche Pinot Noir ‘Texture’ 2019 ($26.90)
Winemaking: Great care is taken to avoid over-ripening, to ensure freshness in the finished wine. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with regular pumping over, and pressed after three weeks on skins. With press wine separated from the free run, the wine was aged for ten months in neutral French oak barrels.
Alcohol 13.4%, pH 3.7, TA 6.2 gm/L, RS 3 gm/ L
The nose reveals a hint of subtle oak spice followed by violets, rose petals and raspberry. A hint of the forest floor is an element of this pinot noir’s growing complexity. On the palate, black cherry and raspberry leading to fine tannins and a poised finish. 91 Points
The Pinot paired wonderfully with Roast Rack of lamb with the wine acidity perfectly neutralizing any excess fat left in the meat.
The Roche Wines are available for purchase online at rterroir.ca, in-person at the winery, and at select private wine stores across the province.