Church & State Winery
Church & State was founded with the purchase of a 25-acre estate on the Saanich Peninsula in 2004. Over the past decade, Church & State has acquired significant Okanagan vineyards and has built an elegant tasting room on Ryegrass Road, south of Oliver. Perched on the edge of the infamous Coyote Bowl in the Oliver-Osoyoos wine region the tasting bar features some of Canada’s best wines.
My first experience with Church & State wines was when I visited their Victoria winery and vineyard – Church & State Wines for the Perfect Pinot Gris. The sparkling Pinot Gris was the highlight of this visit.
Côtes du Rhône Wines
There was great excitement when I noticed the four Rhône Valley style wines in the sample shipment from Church & State winery. There are dozens of grapes grown in France’s Rhône Valley. 13 of these are approved in Châteauneuf du Pape, with another 8 approved in the Côtes du Rhône appellation.
Having never made it to the Côtes du Rhône, my first exposure to these varietals was in Australia. Tahbilk Winery, established in 1860, is one of Australia’s most beautiful and historic family-owned wineries. Located in the Nagambie Lakes region, 120 km north of Melbourne, this is one of the nation’s premium viticultural areas. The property comprises some 1,214 hectares of rich river flats with a frontage of 11 km on the Goulburn River. Tahbilk is well known for its Rhone Valley wines.
Our second exposure to this style of wine was from visiting Paso Robles for the bi-annual Hospice du Rhône’s flagship event. My favourite Paso Winery for Rhône Valley style wines is Tablas Creek Vineyard.
Enough background, now for Church & State’s winemaker and wines.
The Winemaker – Arnaud Thierry
“I grew up in the middle of Bordeaux vineyards. My interest in science and nature brought me to study first biology, biochemistry and geology at Bordeaux University. This interest in science coupled with my love in cooking brought me naturally to study viticulture and enology in Champagne University, where I graduated my diploma of enologist.
I worked as assistant winemaker for Chateau du Galoupet, Cru Classe in cotes de Provence, for Champagne Pannier, Champagne Eustache Deschamp and then Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé in Pessac-Leognan.
For three harvests, I have been a winemaker at Chateau Grand Corbin Despagne, a Grand Cru Classe of Saint Emilion. This experience in vineyard and cellar gave me a strong foundation and understanding of winemaking from roots to wines.
My natural curiosity and my desire to discover other wines brought me to work for fifteen years as a wine consultant and winemaker for wineries in Languedoc, South Cotes du Rhone and Gaillac. These regions of France have the most diversity of varietals and kinds of wines from sparkling, whites, rose, red, sweet wines. During these seven years, I managed also the vineyards and cellar of Domaine Canto Perlic in Gaillac.
An opportunity to move to British Columbia with my family came. It wasn’t planned to leave France. I played ice hockey for several years during my youth. I like the beautiful nature of Canada and I like new adventures, we decided to try the challenge.
As winemaker for Church & State Wines, I am proud to work as part of a team of like-minded and passionate people driven to understand the specific needs of the vines in order to guide the production of exquisite wines. Ultimately, I believe my role is to ultimately see people appreciate and enjoy the wines, celebrating the flavours and nuances together for decades to come. “
Arnaud Thierry
2017 Vintage Notes
2017 was a very complicated and challenging year for BC wine. In the Okanagan the year started with floods that led to excessive growth and resulted in wildfires. Smoke and ash from the Elephant Hills, Oregon and Washington State wildfires was a major concern. Most vineyards experienced decreased yields of up to 20% compared to an average harvest. The quality of the juice was very good. Lower yield means lower quantity but results in higher quality. Here are Arnaud comments on the 2017 vintage.
“When I arrived in February 2018, the 2017 wines were mainly in tanks. My first job was to select wines, to blend and to send to barrels for ageing. It was a little bit like a “negociant eleveur”, who buys wines, makes selections, makes ageing, blends and bottles to make his brands.
During summer 2017, I wasn’t at Church & State, but I was already in the Okanagan Valley. The atmosphere was foggy and smoky. It was kind of scary. Yes, the fear of every winemaker is always to be impacted by bad taste impregnation ( in the vineyard, in the cellar). However, the fires were not too close to the vines. The impact was indirect and I think very little. Whites have no or very short contact with skins. Most of our reds are full-bodied and less sensitive to aromatic impact. From my experience, Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir are the most sensitive to this problem. We only have Pinot Noir and Gamay in our Vancouver Island vineyard.”
Arnaud Thierry
Here are some of the questions I asked Arnaud before tasting the wines.
What are your plans for the future?
We are taking our time to evaluate our Okanagan vineyards before we make any decisions on what vines to plant. It is critical that you get this right because when we plant it is for 20 years!
We have a vineyard on Vancouver Island. When I saw the winery and tasted the wines I said we should do sparkling wines here. We already make an outstanding Pinot Gris and this year we added a sparkling Rose´ from Pinot Noir grapes that will not be released for another year. Previously we had contracted out the bottling of the wine but now we have invested in our own equipment.
You have a large portfolio of wines, will this change in the future?
“Yes, the diversity of the wine portfolio is very challenging to keep all the grape varieties separate. What I really like is the four Rhône Valley grapes that we have in the Oliver vineyard. The vineyard has a lot of gravel that reminds me of the Côtes du Rhône. The summers are similar but the difference is the length of the season. Oliver/ Osoyoos is the only place where the season is long enough for Syrah. The combination of the climate and the soil in the Coyote Bowl is perfect for growing the Rhône Valley varietals and we will continue to focus on these wines.”
Do you see a “signature” grape for the Okanagan Valley in the future?
“No, it is not possible to say there is only one grape for the Okanagan valley going forward. Lake Country is perfect for Pinot Noir and cool-climate whites in the South it is better suited for Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Viognier.
The Rhône Rangers
Church & State Roussanne 2017
The Roussanne has a rich straw colour with a golden reflection. A wine of character and complexity, with notes of pear, tropical fruit, a hint of orange, and vanilla. Some cream and minerals linger on the long finish. “Everything in proportion.” 90 Points
The wine paired well with pan-fried Atlantic Sole with a creamy horseradish sauce.
Church & State Marsanne 2017
This golden wine opens with aromas of fresh apricot, peach, and honeycomb, finishing with subtle oak and floral notes. The palate is rich and buttery with yellow fruit flavours and an enchanting marzipan and vanilla finish. 90 Points
Church & State Viognier 2017
A beautiful golden straw coloured wine from the Coyote Bowl and Bella vineyards. The Viognier burst forth with aromas of yellow fruit and honey. Bold flavours of ripe peach, apricot, nectarine and honeycomb with a dusting of ginger and white pepper. A rich and full palate. My favourite of the three white Rhône Valley tasted. 91 Points
Church & State Syrah 2016
When I opened this bottle I thought I was back in the Barossa Valley tasting a big, brooding Aussie Shiraz!
The black fruit aromas jump from the glass just like walking through a blackberry jam factory. Flavours of blackberries and toffee, black cherries, dark chocolate, smoked meat and a rush of white pepper on the finish. 91 Points.
2017 Vintage Wines
Church & State Sparkling Pinot Gris 2017
The PG grapes are from Vancouver Island. Light in colour, a Charmat style Pinot Gris, bright, fresh, and lightly floral. Aromas of crisp citrus opening to notes of apple and pear. The palate is balanced in acidity and expansive with subtle fruit flavours and a slightly bitter finish. A great aperitif and the perfect alternative to Prosecco on a hot summer day. 90 Points
Church & State Frizzante Muscat 2017
A little bubbly is a great way to start the day. The Muscat grapes were 78% from Brentwood bay and 22% from Coyote Bowl.
Light, soft, round and filled with pear, honey, and apricot. Perfectly balanced acidity and residual sugar. 89 Points
Church & State Pinot Gris 2017
Aromas of pineapple and tropical fruit, citrus and ginger. On the palate, soft acidity to balance the fruit flavours of ripe apple, Anjou pear, nectarine and white peach. 90 Points. The perfect white for a hot summer day.
Church & State Coyote Bowl Series Chardonnay 2017
The Chardonnay was barrel fermented and barrel-aged. This is a young wine with a light golden yellow appearance with aromas of oak, dried fruit, almonds and vanilla. A full viscous body, and balanced acidity with the delicious flavours of green apple and marzipan. This Chardonnay will age extremely well. 92 Points
The Chardonnay has aged really well. When tasted in August 2022 the wine shows more brioche on the nose. Flavours of oak, butterscotch, apple, pear, butter. An elegant creamy chardonnay.
Church & State Merlot 2017
15% Alcohol. Black ruby red in colour. The wine opens with an avalanche of black fruit aromas. Flavours of ripe black cherries, blackberry jam, cloves, cedar, leather and savoury notes. Young ripe, full-bodied and soft tannins. 91 Points.
The Merlot paired perfectly with BBQ lamb chops, stuffed garden-fresh tomatoes and sliced baked potatoes.
Church & State Cabernet Franc 2017
The Cabernet Franc was tank-fermented and barrel-aged for 12 months. This is a really drinkable red wine. Dark Red with aromas of red berries, white pepper and Spices. Fresh ripe tannins, balanced, minty notes and a final hint of red currant on the palate. 90 Points.
Church & State Meritage 2017
A Merlot dominant blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Deep Red Appearance with Aromas of ripe black fruit, notes of black pepper, anise and cedar. Soft full-bodied tannins, Fruity finish and excellent balance. 92 Points.
2018 Vintage Wines
Church & State Sauvignon Blanc 2018
2018 was a difficult year in the Okanagan Valley. Spring floods, dense smoke from summer wildfires and September rains brought many challenges.
Stainless steel fermentation, aged 12% In French Oak for 6 month and 83% in Stainless Steel.
Bright yellow appearance with hints of green. Initial aromas of lime and grapefruit that open into white peach and tropical fruit. A medium body wine finishing with strong fruit character. 91 Points
For the complete portfolio of Church & State wines please visit the winery website.