Background
The Brunners purchased Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Vineyards in 2012. The winery was named Blue Grouse by the original owner of the winery Hans Kiltz as there are many Blue Grouse living in the area. Paul and Cristina Brunner grew up in big families with international roots. Paul is a mining engineer. Cristina is an artist. Their only daughter, Paula, is an engineer.
Paul hired Boxwood Architects in Seattle to design the winery. The roofline resembles the curve of a grouse’s head and neck. The curves of the tasting room soaring ceiling reminds one of a grouse’s belly!
The experience at Blue Grouse is extraordinary. Visitors stroll past a pond strewn with birds, tadpoles, and beehives as they step towards the winery. Guests then walk into a bright, airy, and sustainably constructed tasting room. The room then opens onto a sun-drenched patio, the perfect spot for charcuterie and a glass of rosé.
Earlier this year, Blue Grouse Estate Winery was named (for the second year in a row) as the Best Island Winery by readers of Times-Colonist, Vancouver Island’s main newspaper.
Vineyard
The 65 acres of Blue Grouse Estate lies on a sunny slope of Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley. 10 acres of the estate is a wild riparian area. The valley enjoys one of Canada’s warmest mean temperature and is the newest BC Sub-GI. The terroir encompasses wind protection by evergreen trees, an all-Southern exposure, a combination of clay and gravelly soil, and the nurturing of pure air and spring water. Thanks to this exceptional site, the seven acres of vines require little fertilisation and irrigation. Many of the vines are more than 20 years old, most of which were propagated on their own vinifera rootstock.
Winemaker
Bailey Williamson grew up in Burnaby. At university, Bailey wrote a food column for the newspaper suggesting simple recipes for broke college students and afterwards spent a good chunk of his life pursuing work in the culinary arts. In 1993 he relocated to Victoria and became involved in the “farm to table” movement.
Working his way from the bottom up at several wineries, Bailey managed to learn enough about winemaking to impress his wife Jenny, who was working in the wine industry in the State of Washington when they met. Bailey spent five years as Assistant Winemaker at Road 13 Vineyards. He joined Blue Grouse as Winemaker and Vineyard Manager in 2012.
Harvest 2019
“Bud break was roughly last week of April, flowering had great weather, sunny and warm which led to a great fruit set. Draught conditions necessitated irrigation in August to hasten veraison. Everything was shaping up nicely until October 10 full moon and frost, this meant everything came in. This was fairly consistent throughout BC, friends in the Okanagan said many areas were frosted on the same day.
Weather aside, the white wines we bottled were beautiful. Just the right amount of natural acidity and minerality while still aromatically expressive.
The reds in barrel currently are showing great poise and complexity if not lower alcohols, fresh rather than robust and again great natural acidity and minerality.”
Bailey Williamson, Winemaker
The New Quill Wines
The Quill label, introduced in 2014, allows Bailey Williamson, to express his talents. Sourcing some of the best grapes grown in British Columbia and blending them meticulously, Bailey’s mandate is to make single varietal wines or blends that are distinctive.
The goal is to strike a balance between the high acid grapes from Vancouver Island and the more fruit-forward grapes from the Okanagan. The guarantee is that Quill wines will be made in the winery from excellent grapes, with the same attention to detail and quality, as are the Estate wines.
Blue Grouse Quill Q White 2019
Vineyard Notes
The Schönburger (35%) is the special sauce for this wine. The grape is not common on the Island and comes from a sole partner in the Comox Valley, who’s small vineyard overlooks the Salish Sea. The Pinot Gris (26%), Gewürztraminer(22%) and Siegerrebe(17%) are from a single vineyard in the Cowichan Valley about 16 kilometres northeast of the Blue Grouse estate.
Winemaker’s Notes
Alcohol 11.5% | pH 3.3| TA 5.8 | RS 1.5
Each grape variety is fermented separately and allowed to develop in the tank prior to assemblage. This is done purposefully to allow enough time to construct just the right flavour profile and ensure the wine possesses the desired aromatics and vibrancy. For freshness, only the Pinot Gris underwent malolactic fermentation.
Tasting Notes & Food Pairing
This exclusive Vancouver Island blend shows floral aromas of white flowers and orange blossom. Medium body and acidity make for a lively wine. White peach, pineapple, pear and mandarin orange on the palate with mild salinity and a hint of pink grapefruit on the finish. 90 Points.
An unpretentious and easy-going wine. The perfect counterpart for seafood or on its own with friends.
Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Noir 2018
Winemaker’s Notes
Alcohol 12.5% | pH 3.6| TA 5.7 | RS 0.7
The two Pinot Noirs (60% Cowichan/ 40% Peachland) were fermented and allowed to develop separately before blending. Each was left on skins for four days, had no yeast added, and experienced only a small addition of nutrients. Fermentation was completed in ten days. After pressing, the wine was moved into two-year-old French oak barrels to complete malolactic fermentation, which was followed by twelve months of ageing.
Profile & Food Pairing
The Pinot is a transparent light ruby colour so you are surprised by the richness on the palate. Lovely aromas of red stone fruit, vanilla and cranberries. Flavours of cherry pie, baking spices and a hint of chocolate. Medium acidity and a touch of tannin. 91 Points
It is a perfect accompaniment to wild sockeye salmon, hearty pasta dishes or rack of lamb.
Blue Grouse Quill Rosé 2019
Vineyard Notes
The Cowichan Valley Gamay Noir (67%) and Pinot Noir (27%) come from separate vineyards 5 kilometres apart on different sides of the valley. Both are quality grapes suppliers who have long standing relationships with Blue Grouse. The Okanagan Pinot Noir (6%) is from a grape-growing partner just north of Oliver.
Winemaker’s Notes
Alcohol 11.5% | pH 3.3| TA 7.1 | RS 2.5
The Gamay Noir continues to be the workhorse for the rosé. It was destemmed into the tank and left on skins for 36 hours before pressing. The two Pinot Noirs were each destemmed into the press and then left overnight for 12 hours. Each of the three wines was fermented separately, left to age in a tank and then blended prior to bottling.
Profile & Food Pairing
The rosé is a vibrant reddish-pink with aromas of strawberry, rhubarb and citrus. Fresh and lively on the palate and bursting with the flavour of red berries, key lime and savoury notes. A dry, medium body wine with a long full-flavoured finish. 90 points.
This complex, full-flavoured rosé will pair well with grilled fish, chicken or pizza.
For the complete portfolio of wines, please see the Blue Grouse Estate Winery website.
Expectations for Vintage 2020
“Bud break was similar due to warm weather leading up to the end of April, cue the dark brooding Wagner music. May and June and even the early part of July were decidedly cool and damp even for the coast, this resulted in sporadic fruit set from less than optimal flowering conditions. Lots of vegetative growth due to plenty of water in the soil profile and then the heat hit. This is where we are currently.
It is expected that we will harvest around mid-September with Siegerrebe coming first. Lighter crop, berries with different sizes and maturity and if my prayers are heard we will have sacrificed some warm weather in the spring for long autumn, which might provide some exceptional fruit. Mother nature is a fickle mistress.“
Bailey Williamson, Winemaker
Future plans
Vineyard Expansion
Seven thousand new vines have been added to Blue Grouse’s Brunner Vineyard last May. 11,000 will be added in the fall and 18,000 next spring. This is part of Blue Grouse’s expansion plan that will result in 35 acres of plantings when the work is done in 2021.
Going Organic
Blue Grouse is in the process of becoming certified organic. First, they are looking into certifying the Kiltz and Paula vineyards and then moving on to the others and then to the winemaking organic certification. Michael Abbott, the vineyard manager has been applying organic principles since he started working at Blue Grouse but the certification process is long. The team is hopeful to finish the transition in 3 years.