During our recent trip Downunder to visit family, we had the opportunity to visit East Gippsland Wine Country again. This time we spent time with the winemakers at Lightfoot & Sons and Sarsfield Vineyards. For the background on East Gippsland in Victoria see our earlier post here. This region has a similar climate and wine style to the Okanagan Valley, so provided an opportunity to compare BC Wines to a well-entrenched global competitor.
About three hours east of Melbourne, The Gippsland Lakes District is located between the Great Dividing Range and the Bass Strait. The region is famed for the large areas of National Park and State Forest, as well as the Gippsland Lakes System. The region has a lower annual rainfall than much of Gippsland and enjoys a coastal climate which provides sea breezes throughout the growing season. The cool semi-maritime climate has proven to be particularly well suited for Pinot Noir and cool-climate styles of Chardonnay and Syrah.
Lightfoot & Sons
When I saw the Lightfoot & Sons sign my mind flashed back to the ’70’s. Gordon Lightfoot was singing his classic “Early Morning Rain” at Massie Hall in Toronto. That was the “pre-good wine times of my youth”.
It was a busy late summer Sunday when we visited the winery. The 20-minute wait for a wine tasting was well worth the time. We devoured the premium charcuterie of local meats and cheeses in anticipation of the 12 wine complimentary tasting. Now that’s a tasting! (you had to see Paul Hogan in Crocodile Dundee II to appreciate this quip)
The Vineyard
Lightfoot & Sons 80 acre Vineyard was planted between 1995-1997 by the Lightfoot family on their farm ‘Myrtle Point’. Pinot Noir plantings make up almost half, with smaller blocks of Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet. The vineyard orientation takes advantage of the sea breezes making it perfect for Pinot Noir Grapes. The breezes also help to control any mildew formation. The winery produced 8,000 to 10,000 cases annually.
Shoot thinning and crop thinning when required, along with and limited use of irrigation helps maintain low cropping levels of less than 2 tonnes per acre. The maritime influence in the vineyard has a moderating effect on the cool climate. This enables the fruit to develop flavours that have great varietal character and depth of flavour.
The Lightfoot & Sons Wines
Our host Simon had all the background information on the wines we tasted. They were poured in the order shown below. This was an interesting change on the classic light white to heavy red format.
Sparkling
Lightfoot & Sons Vintage Sparkling 2011 This wine is a classic 50/50 mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Made in the traditional method utilizing full bottle fermentation. The wine has been aged on lees for over 5 years to develop complexity and finesse. An excellent sipping “Bubbly” with apple notes.
Lightfoot & Sons Sparkling Shiraz 2008 Made in the traditional method utilizing full bottle fermentation. The Sparkling Shiraz was slightly cloudy but with good fruit character, balance and structure. Shiraz fruit on the palate gives the wine a lovely vibrancy and depth of flavour complemented by a long fresh finish.
Calulu Road
Lightfoot & Sons Calulu Road Unwooded Chardonnay 2016 This was the wine we sipped with the charcuterie. Sparkling bright in colour and flavour. Fresh aromas of white peach and floral perfumes are matched with a medium weight palate and a lovely lingering finish. A great value wine at only $A19.
Lightfoot & Sons Calulu Road Shiraz Cabernet 2015 This medium-bodied red is a versatile wine suitable for any occasion, with or without a meal. The wine shows Shiraz spice with generous plum, blackberry and tobacco flavours that are balanced with soft tannins.
Myrtle Point Vineyard
Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Rosé 2017 Made from 60% Shiraz, pale pink in colour with a faint salmon hue. A vibrant wine with strawberry and floral aromas. An excellent “summer sipper”.
Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 Peach, Mellon and citrus character complement the texture and complexity achieved with barrel fermentation, lees stirring and maturation in French Oak Barriques and Puncheons. The barrels are approximately 15% new oak with a mixture of larger format oak in Hogs Heads and Puncheons.
Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 Small batch winemaking combining traditional methods with some wild yeasts and whole bunch ferments. French oak maturation. Spices, plum, rhubarb, sweet cherries, orange peel and cranberry fruit layered with savoury, earthy elements. Bottled unfiltered.
Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Merlot 2015 A wine with generous plum and dark berry fruit character complemented by savoury notes, supple tannins and French oak.
Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Shiraz 2015 An elegant and aromatic cool climate Shiraz. Traditional winemaking in small batches; hand plunged in open fermenters, followed by 11 months maturation in new and seasoned French oak. Blackberries and dark plum fruit complemented by a hint of classic cool climate spice.
Single Block
Lightfoot & Sons Home Block Chardonnay 2016 The Home Block was the first planting of vines at the Myrtle Point property in 1995. Positioned on a limestone bluff high above the Mitchell River, the Home Block consistently produces concentrated wine.
Grapes picked, pressed and juice run directly into barrels for fermentation on full solids. 50% Malo-lactic fermentation, and 11-month maturation on lees in French oak hogsheads, 25% new.
An intense aroma of melon and peach with a complex almond and fern character. On the palate, initial flavours of melon and peach develop into a creamy, textured wine with nutty tones and excellent acid length.
Lightfoot & Sons Cliff Block Pinot Noir 2015 The Cliff Block is planted on a limestone bluff high above the Mitchell River at the southern end of the Myrtle Point Vineyard. The exposed site is naturally low yielding and consistently produces Pinot Noir with great intensity and complexity.
The Pinot Noir Clone is MV6, harvested with a yield of only 1.4 tons/acre. Handpicked, gently destemmed into small open fermenters with 30% whole bunches, hand plunged twice daily. 10 Month French oak maturation, 30 % new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only 200 cases produced.
A rich, dark, intense expression of Pinot Noir. Aromatic with violets, intense black cherry and plum, this wine has a full and textured palate with superb varietal fruit character and integration. An exceptional example of Gippsland Pinot Noir.
Lightfoot & Sons River Block Shiraz 2015 The River Block sits on a limestone bluff alongside the Mitchell River. Planted in a seam of rich red soil layered over the limestone with a gentle easterly aspect, the River Block yields Shiraz of complexity and elegance.
Handpicked and gently destemmed into small open fermenters. Hand plunged twice daily. 100-days post ferment maceration. French oak maturation, 50% new.
Aromas of Blackberry, liquorice, cedar and spiced plums. Ultra-fine tannin and impressive length. A textured, fruit driven palate that is delicious to drink now, but will also reward careful cellaring for many years to come. A classic Northern Rhône style Syrah.
Winemakers Alastair Butt and Tom Lightfoot have delivered some outstanding cool-climate wines.
Sarsfield Estate
The Sarsfield Estate vineyard is about 5 acres and was established in 1991. The first commercial vintage was in 1998. The vineyard includes Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. We visited the winery on the first day of the Pinot Noir harvest. The 2018 vintage was picked two weeks earlier than an average vintage. The Pinot Noir clone used at Sarsfield is MV6, a popular clone in Australia. James Busby brought Pinot Noir to Australia in December 1831¹. The cuttings were taken from Clos Vougeot and labelled MV6. No insecticides are used in the vineyard.
The East Gippsland winery runs solely on solar and wind energy and relies entirely on rainwater. They produce around 1000 cases per year.
The Winemakers
Suzanne Rutschmann’s family home is in Dornach, a village near Basel in Switzerland. It lies at the foot of the Dorneck hill and immediately adjacent to some very ancient vineyard sites. In 1989 she migrated to Australia with Peter Albrecht to plant vines and make wine. Suzanne who has a PhD in chemistry, a Diploma in Horticulture and a BSc (Wine Science) from CSU.
Peter is a civil engineer and has set up and looks after all the machinery. He has also undertaken various courses in agriculture and viticulture.
The Wines
Sarsfield Estate Pinot 2013 Alcohol: 12.7%, TA: 6.6 g/L, pH: 3.54 Fermented in small batches, hand plunged and pressed in a traditional basket press. The wine is matured in French oak barriques for 15 months and bottled unfiltered.
Translucent deep red colour. Roses and violets and some cedar on the nose. The Palate is incredibly soft and luscious with concentrated flavours of roses, loads of red cherry, and some plum and forest floor. It has plenty of weight and a very long finish. Gold medal winner at the International Wine Challenge 2015 in Vienna. One fabulously complex Pinot!
The Austrian Wine Challenge Vienna (AWC Vienna) is one of the largest wine competitions in the world. The event takes place annually in the Vienna City Hall and is officially recognized by the European Union as a distinguished wine rating.
Sarsfield Estate Cabernets Shiraz Merlot 2013 Alcohol: 13.3%, Titr. Acidity: 6.5 g/L, pH 3.52. A single vineyard blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (~60%), Shiraz (~30%), Merlot (~10%) and a small amount of Mourvèdre. Grapes were fermented in open vats and pressed in a basket press. The wine has been matured for 18 months in French oak barrels.
Deep red colour, ripe dark fruits on the nose – blackcurrant, a little blackberry from Cabernet Sauvignon and some floral overtones from Cabernet Franc. Full-bodied palate with concentrated flavour and plenty of weight. Blackcurrant, blackberry, cedar notes from French oak and a long dark chocolate finish. Another Gold medal winner at the 2015 International Wine Challenge in Vienna.
Koalas
No trip to East Gippsland would be complete without a trip to Raymond Island to see the Koalas, so enjoy!
References
- Australian Pinot Noir Session 9 of the Landmark Australia Tutorial