It has been a few years since I last took a close look at Tantalus Vineyards, but one thing hasn’t changed: Riesling remains at the heart of this East Kelowna winery.
Perched above Okanagan Lake on the East Kelowna Slopes, Tantalus has long been one of British Columbia’s benchmark Riesling producers. Its vineyard history stretches back to 1927, while some of the estate’s treasured Riesling vines date to 1978.
Those historic vines are reserved for the winery’s celebrated Old Vines Riesling, but Tantalus’ regular Riesling has developed an impressive following of its own. The 2023 Tantalus Riesling is a terrific example of why.
David Paterson — Winemaker and General Manager
A constant at Tantalus since my earlier article, David Paterson has continued to evolve in his role at the winery.
Born in Vancouver and raised in New Zealand, Paterson studied winemaking at Lincoln University in Christchurch before building experience at wineries around the world. His résumé includes Neudorf Vineyards in New Zealand, Archery Summit in Oregon, Domaine Dublère in Burgundy and Henschke Cellars in South Australia.
Paterson joined Tantalus as winemaker in 2009 and became General Manager in 2016, giving him responsibility extending well beyond the cellar.
His approach remains focused on allowing the vineyard and vintage to speak for themselves, with gentle handling and relatively non-interventionist winemaking.
Riesling is particularly well suited to that philosophy—and to Tantalus’ cool East Kelowna site.
Tantalus Riesling 2023 — 93 Points
Vineyard & Winemaking
The 2023 Riesling was sourced from Tantalus estate vines planted in 2005 and 2009, supplemented by fruit from established neighbouring vineyards within the East Kelowna Slopes sub-GI.
The fruit was harvested over several weeks, whole-bunch pressed and fermented cool and slowly in stainless steel.
The wine finished with approximately 15 g/L residual sugar, but the number doesn’t tell the full story. Tantalus Riesling is built around the tension between that touch of sweetness and the naturally vibrant acidity of East Kelowna fruit.
The result is a wine that tastes refreshing and beautifully balanced rather than overtly sweet.
Technical Specifications: 100% Riesling | Alc. 12.2% | RS ~15 g/L | BC VQA East Kelowna Slopes
Tasting Notes
A wonderfully expressive Riesling displaying a whole library of citrus. The off-dry Riesling has a dark straw colour. Aromas of key lime, mandarin orange and pink grapefruit are joined by ripe apricot and a subtle fresh herbal note.
The palate is juicy and energetic, with the citrus spectrum carrying through against vibrant natural acidity. A touch of residual sugar rounds the fruit beautifully without making the wine feel sweet, creating excellent tension and balance.
Medium-bodied and refreshing, with an impressively long, mouthwatering finish.
93 Points.
Food Pairing
Riesling’s combination of fruit, acidity and modest residual sugar makes this an exceptionally versatile food wine.
We paired the 2023 with BBQ chicken glazed with Sweet Baby Ray’s sauce and home-grown green beans. It was an excellent combination—the wine’s acidity refreshed the palate while its touch of sweetness complemented the smoky, sweet and tangy barbecue sauce.
Other excellent pairings include sushi, spicy Asian dishes, pork, fish tacos, grilled prawns and mildly spiced curries.
While the Tantalus Riesling 2023 is now sold out at the winery, current Tantalus releases can be purchased through the winery’s online shop. Shop Tantalus wines online
An Unforgettable 2023 Vintage
The 2023 growing season was challenging across the Okanagan. An extreme cold event in December 2022 damaged vines and reduced yields. Bud break arrived relatively late in early May, followed by rapid growth as warm, dry conditions accelerated the season.
The summer of 2023 is one I remember particularly well. In August, the McDougall Creek wildfire emergency spread across the Central Okanagan, with fires also burning on the Kelowna side of Okanagan Lake. On August 18, our Quail Ridge neighbourhood was placed under an evacuation order, and we had to leave our home as fire threatened North Glenmore, McKinley and the surrounding area.
It was a sobering reminder that the challenges of a vintage extend far beyond what happens in the vineyard. Against that backdrop, wines like this Tantalus Riesling 2023 provide a remarkable snapshot of a difficult and unforgettable Okanagan growing season.
Riesling Remains the Tantalus Signature
Much has happened in BC wine since my previous Tantalus article.
The catastrophic winter damage that followed eventually left the province with virtually no 2024 grape crop. Tantalus responded creatively, sourcing Riesling from Ontario for its 2024 bottling rather than abandoning one of the wines most closely associated with the winery.
Fortunately, the 2025 vintage brought a return to primarily East Kelowna fruit, allowing Paterson and his team to produce their Riesling largely from home territory again.
Through all those changes, the basic formula has remained remarkably consistent: cool-climate fruit, vibrant acidity, restrained sweetness and a winemaking style that lets Riesling speak clearly.
The 2023 Tantalus Riesling is now showing beautifully. At three years from vintage, its citrus character remains wonderfully vibrant, while the wine has developed enough depth to suggest plenty of life ahead.
For anyone wondering why Riesling has become one of East Kelowna’s signature varieties, the Tantalus Riesling 2023 provides a compelling answer.
For more on Tantalus and its historic Riesling vines, read my earlier article, Tantalus and Old Vines Riesling & Young Chard.